Sump pump replacement & backup pumps

Your sump pump is the last line of defense on central Ohio's wet clay soils.

Around Westerville, the sump pump is often the most important appliance in the house that nobody thinks about. When the soil around your foundation is saturated, which happens a lot on central Ohio's slow-draining clay, the pump is what keeps that water from rising through the floor. Most basement floods we hear about come down to one of three things: a pump that failed, a pump that couldn't keep up, or a power outage during a storm.

Signs your sump system needs attention

• The pump runs constantly or cycles on and off every few seconds.
• It hums but water doesn't go down. The impeller may be jammed, or the check valve may have failed.
• It's more than about 7–10 years old (a common rule of thumb), or it's rusty or noisy.
• The float switch sticks against the pit wall.
• The discharge pipe dumps water right next to the house, so the same water cycles back into the pit.
• There's no backup, and your area loses power during summer storms.

Options a contractor may suggest

Primary pump replacement

A properly sized submersible pump with a vertical or tethered float, plus a new check valve. The right size depends on how much water comes in and how high and far the water has to be pumped.

Battery backup pump

A second pump in the same pit, run by a deep-cycle battery and set slightly higher than the main pump. It kicks in if the main pump fails or the power goes out. Ask how long it can run on one charge and how the battery is monitored.

Water-powered backup

Some homes on city water can use a backup pump driven by water pressure, with no battery to replace. Whether it's allowed and practical depends on your water pressure and local plumbing rules, so ask the contractor and your water provider.

New pit or sealed lid

Older homes sometimes have a shallow clay-tile crock or a pit with no cover. A properly sized liner with a sealed, gasketed lid keeps out debris, cuts humidity, and helps with radon control.

Discharge improvements

Running the discharge farther from the foundation, toward a spot where the yard slopes away, and protecting the outlet from freezing so it doesn't back up in January.

A simple maintenance routine

1. Every spring and fall, slowly pour a five-gallon bucket of water into the pit and watch the pump switch on and empty it.
2. Look at the discharge outlet outside and clear leaves, mulch, snow or ice.
3. Listen for grinding or rattling, which can mean the impeller is failing.
4. If you have a battery backup, test it and check the battery date.
5. Consider a cheap water alarm on the floor next to the pit.

A note on insurance

Many standard homeowners policies don't cover water that backs up from a sewer or drain, or overflows from a sump, unless you've added a specific "water backup" endorsement. Coverage varies by insurer, so check your policy or call your agent before you need it.

Costs

Pump replacements and backup systems usually cost far less than a full drain system, but prices depend on the equipment, whether the pit needs work, and the discharge setup. Ask for the pump brand and model in writing so you can compare quotes fairly.

Sources

• Soil Survey of Delaware County, Ohio (USDA-NRCS), glacial geology section: auditor.co.delaware.oh.us
• Franklin and Delaware County soil summaries based on USDA soil data: foundationsoils.com (Franklin), foundationsoils.com (Delaware)
• Franklin Soil & Water Conservation District, "Restrictions on soil": jacksontwpfranklinoh.gov
• HomeGuide, basement waterproofing cost (2026): homeguide.com